It all begins with Ananda
… actually, it ends with ananda. In the ancient Indian language, Sanskrit, ananda means “bliss.” Through dedicated practice of Yoga, a yogi (practitioner of Yoga) can achieve the state of bliss associated with ‘samadhi,’ the experience of union with the divine essence of the universe. This is the ultimate goal of yoga…but we are getting ahead of ourselves…

Yoga in Nicaragua begins with Ananda (named for the aforementioned state of bliss), a yoga center and vegetarian restaurant in Managua. In 1970, before the brutal earthquake, before revolution and war, a long-bearded Indian mystic and yogi arrived in Managua with a mission: achieve world peace by helping individuals achieve a state of internal peace. Yoga is a system for living that is designed to cultivate internal peace, focus, harmony and integration within the individual. Swami Guru Devanand Saraswati Ji Maharaj figured if Yoga could be spread to all corners of the planet, peace would inevitably follow. Not bad logic.

Yoga offers many different techniques for achieving this same goal. The Swami’s style of Yoga focuses on Mantra meditation: repeating specific Sanskrit phrases while in a state of complete mental focus. No yogi would argue that the same technique will work for all people, but this one worked very well for José Luís Pallaviccini Norori, who then adopted the name Sri Ramesh and became Nicaragua’s first yoga master. Sri Guru’s organization, Sociedad Internacional de Realización Divina (SIRD), bought the land where Ananda currently resides. Sri Ramesh set a goal: to offer Nicas a vision of a healthier way of life. They started selling fresh juices (without refined sugar!) and later, vegetarian meals out of a broken down bus. A humble and heartfelt endeavor. True Nica style.

From Ananda to Aqua
In 2010, Yoga is now a worldwide phenomenon. Costa Rica is a major “yoga destination,” with North American and European yogis plunking down millions of dollars each year to study and practice in Tico-landia. Yatzu Lios, one of the managers of the Nosara Yoga Institute’s Blue Spirit, a magnificent yoga retreat center with a 4 story hotel/practice facility with 360 degree views of the mountains and Nosara coastline, put it succinctly: “Ticos used to think that Yoga was a religion. Now most realize that it isn’t. It is a way of life.”

Richard Moncada, a yoga teacher at Ananda, cites the same mistaken prejudice as the primary obstacle to sharing Yoga in Nicaragua: “They think it is in conflict with Catholicism and Christianity. Not at all! Yoga is a lifestyle that involves a spiritual discipline and allows the individual to achieve a state of union between her mind, body and soul. Yoga means union.”

Another challenge to sharing Yoga: “There is no culture of Yoga here,” explained Diana Lanuza, the founder of Clinica One, a Managua day spa and yoga center. “So when people come into a class, they don’t know what to expect, what to wear, etc. The class involves a lot of guiding.” Diana is one of approximately 20 teachers in Nicaragua who are offering regular Yoga classes, that is, classes that focus primarily on the postures that are the most famous element of the yoga practice. “Since I started practicing, I’ve employed the principle of detachment, living a more simple life, focusing more an myself,” she says. “But this doesn’t mean being selfish, but finding happiness in yourself. Then you can truly make someone else happy.”

Warren Ogden, a Yoga teacher at PURE, a gym, spa & Yoga center in Granada, echoed her sentiment: “an authentic Yoga practice begins with the experience of detachment: separating yourself from your thoughts and emotions and even your physical sensations, and occupying the position of the observer. Witnessing, without grasping or reacting.” PURE offers daily classes, retreats, and workshops. “My goal is to create at PURE a vibrant community of support for the individual’s practice and growth, and my hope is that we’ll see these sorts of communities sprout up throughout Nicaragua.”

Yoga is growing in a number of hotspots around the country. Larry Thraen operates an internationally-recognized teacher training program in conjunction with the School Yoga Institute. Donna Major is a graduate of the program who, like Larry, now teaches at Buena Vida Fitness Center in San Juan del Sur. Larry believes that Nicaragua can and should become a major destination for Yoga tourism, but “Nicaragua needs a global PR campaign to focus on the beauty and safety of the country. Yoga/eco-tourism is win-win for everyone.”

Nicaragua’s first two world-class yoga retreat centers just opened their doors. Both are upscale and ecologically-minded. Jicaro Ecolodge resides on a private island among Granada’s 360 isletas. Aqua Nicaragua is nestled among the coastal cliffs and hillsides just south of Playa Gigante. Both institutions reflect a central tenet of Yoga called Karma Yoga: an effort for the common good, carried out selflessly.

Gabriela Prado is another of Nicaragua’s yoga pioneers and also a prime example of Karma Yoga in action. Gabriela offers regular free classes on the Popoyo beach. She has also been teaching yoga to kids and teenagers in Salinas de Nagualapa, Tola, for five years as part of the educational foundation, Aprender (AprenderNicaragua.org).

Gabriela found too that Yoga was new to the people in the area. “Initially, yes, there were preconceptions and misconceptions about Yoga. So I talked with the parents, explaining that Hatha Yoga is like physical exercise, but with additional benefits, focusing on becoming aware of ourselves: how we breathe, what we eat and drink, as well as being conscious and appreciative of the nature around us. The parents were open to it and the kids really love it.“

Gabriela along with James Womack will be opening a yoga retreat center in May, 2010. The retreat is set on fifteen acres of organic gardens and fruit trees, bordering a river, just upstream from the beaches of Popoyo. The name of the retreat is Equilibrio. It is a fitting name, as the educational opportunities of the local children will continue to rise along with the yoga tourism they bring to the area.

All the yogis interviewed for this article shared a common sentiment: Yoga in Nicaragua is nascent; sharing Yoga here is challenging, but feels exceptionally rewarding, like the practice itself. Dan and Geri shared a physical metaphor: “Once, when we were feeling really challenged during the construction phase, some unknown tree started dropping magnificent little flowers, which floated down to our yoga deck. They were like little blessings. We feel blessed to be part of such a living enterprise, in this phenomenal country.”

PURE – Granada www.purenica.com
JICARO ISLAND ECOLODGE – Las Isletas de Granada www.jicarolodge.com
ANANDA – Managua www.yogadevanand.com
CENTRO DE YOGA CENTER – Managua www.centrodeyogacenter.com
CLINICA ONE – Managua (505) 8773-8825
BUEDA VIDA FITNESS CENTER – San Juan del Sur www.buenavidafitness.com
NICA YOGA AT CAMINO DEL SOL – San Juan del Sur www.nicayoga.com
YOGA WITH GABRIELA PRADO – Popoyo/Guasacate/Salinas, Tola www.equilibrioyoga.com
AQUA NICARAGUA – www.aquanicaragua.com
BWSP – www.bigworldsmallplanet.com

www.la-libertad.net

From the moment you get to Rio San Juan, you feel that you are in a place you will never forget. Nicaragua’s largest body of water, Lake Cocibolca, gives life to the river, providing a sanctuary for water birds, like herons and needle ducks; sweet water fishes like, shads, sea bass, guapotes and mojarras and millenarian reptiles, like alligators and turtles. The area is also the home of one of the most important nature reserves of Nicaragua: the Indio Maiz Biological Reserve.

The Rio San Juan was known to the conquistadors and colonists who came from Spain as “el Desaguadero” (the drainage) when it was discovered in 1525, because it unites the Caribbean ocean with Lake Cocibolca. The area was a trade point with the Spanish provinces in Costa Rica, Cuba, Cartagena de Indias in Colombia and other Caribbean islands. It was also used by pirates and thieves who invaded San Carlos and stole money, gold and other valuable objects from Managua, Leon and Granada. Because of this, the Spanish built the fortress El Castillo de la Inmaculada Concepcion in the community with the same name.

Over 200km long, the Rio San Juan flows into the Caribbean Sea in the San Juan del Norte community. It borders Costa Rica, and in its long extension there are many border places like the one from Los Chiles, entering Frio River, and San Pancho, in the community that has the same name.

At 300m wide, the Rio San Juan is calm throughout a majority of its length, but there are a few sections of rapids like Los Raudales del Diablo in front of El Castillo.

While traveling the river, you can see the different communities that have been established on its banks like La Esperanza, La Foca, Santa Rosa, Isla Medio Queso, Grande, Palo de Arco, Isla Chica or Sabalos. In most of these towns, the houses are built on stilts to avoid flooding when the level of the river rises during and after the rain.

Most of the inhabitants of San Juan River are fishermen who practice artisan fishing, a type of fishing that involves using small boats and traditional techniques and equipment. There are also communities that harvest oranges and export them to Costa Rica.

For tourists, the Rio San Juan area has been steadily developing a tourism infrastructure that offers a variety of visitor accommodations and activities. There are ecologic hotels that provide opportunities to explore the jungle and enjoy its biodiversity.

This touristic development of Rio San Juan and its surrounding areas has happened in large part thanks to the support provided by international organizations like the Spanish Agency of International Cooperation for Development through the Araucaria project, as well as the Nicaraguan Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources.

Rio San Juan can be reached by land, air or lake. By land, you take the Chontales road, however the Acoyapa stretch to San Carlos is deteriorated so you will need a 4×4. Buses are avaible as well. The ride takes about 9 hours and costs C$300 Cordobas (US$15.00). You can get the bus at the Mayoreo Market in Managua. The journey by air takes 47 minutes and costs US$120 dollars roundtrip. You can get there by boats leaving from Granada. It takes from 12 to 15 hours and it stops at Ometepe Island, Morrito and San Miguelito. The cost is around C$150 Cordobas (US$7.50).

From San Carlos you can go to many different locations along the San Juan River. There is a boat that leaves to El Castillo everyday at 8 AM, with a capacity of 55 people and a cost of C$77 (US$4.00) Cordobas. The boat returns to San Carlos at 2 PM. In order to get to San Juan del Norte, you have to be there by 7AM to arrive at 4PM, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays with a capacity of 90 people and a cost of C$400.00 Cordobas (US$20.00). The boat returns on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. There is another faster boat that holds 20 people, costs C$500.00 (US$25.00) and has the same schedule, but gets there in just 5 hours.

By Marcos Zamora, Photography Chris Sataua

A perfect red circle among the pink and white of the sky, the setting sun reflects the mists on Chirinagüa hill in the idyllic town of Jinotega.

“Coffee Capital,” “City of the Mist” or “Xinotencalt” – as different people throughout the years have called Jinotega, is the ideal destination to escape the routine of the city. The nature reserves, Lake Apanás, cathedrals, history and culture, offer the visitor a unique and unforgettable experience in the region.

Located at an altitude of 1074 meters, Jinotega provides an excellent climate, and one ideal for growing coffee and other agricultural products. An estimated 60% of vegetable production at the national level is from this area.

Apanás is an artificial lake built in 1964, which besides being absolutely beautiful, is the supplier of 23% of the hydropower in the country, has a wide range of plant and animal life and is recognized for its good fishing.

In the municipality of San Rafael del Norte, 20 minutes away from Jinotega, is the Church of San Rafael Arcángel, established by priest Andrea Odorico in 1954. In December of 2000, the church and the impressive works of art it houses were designated as a National Historic Monument.

In the same town is also the Museum of General Augusto Cesar Sandino, the renowned historical figure who at the end of the decade of the 20’s became the leader of the Nicaraguan resistance against U.S. occupation troops.

After significant periods of fighting during the years around the revolution, Jinotega now breathes peace and tranquility, the perfect atmosphere for enjoying natural reserves such as the Bosawás Biosphere Reserve, the El Jaguar Reserve, the Datanlí-El Diablo national forest and many more.

There is no doubt that the town of Jinotega is one of the most beautiful places in the country. For any who visit, its climate, its people, its culture and history, will provide moments that you will never forget.

By Jonathan Jackson. Photography by Ernesto Hellmund.

Nicaragua is often referred to as the land of lakes and volcanoes, so it is only fitting that one of the country’s most incredible natural wonders has been both. Laguna de Apoyo, located between Masaya and Granada, was formed over 20,000 years ago after Volcano Apoyo exploded leaving a huge crater that over time filled with water and became a lake. It is remarkable to behold, whether from the shore on the bottom looking up at its steep slopes covered in lush vegetation, or from the lookout point above the crater in the city of Catarina.

The main attraction of Apoyo of course is its clear, fresh water – widely regarded as the cleanest in Nicaragua – which can be just what you need on a hot, muggy Nicaragua afternoon. It’s usually pretty warm, but the farther you go out, the colder it gets as the depth increases exponentially with a lowest measured point of 200 meters. Several hotels, hostels and restaurants line the shorefront of the lagoon, each providing varying forms of beach access. They range in price from the high-end Norome Villas, to the cheaper local restaurants that offer traditional Nica food and an abundance of hammocks. If you have a little bit of a budget, it is well worth the $6 day pass to get access to the Monkey Hut hostel’s friendly shores and their assortment of innertubes and kayaks, plus a floating dock made for soaking up the sun.

By Jonathan Jackson, Photography Vivian Chen

While I suppose it is kind of interesting that the more than 360 tiny islands in Lake Cocibolca that make up Las Isletas de Granada were formed when the volcano Mombacho erupted over 10,000 years ago, there is an even better reason to take a relaxing boat trip through this beautiful aquatic labyrinth: Monkeys!

And what is the only thing better than one monkey? That’s right, a tiny island of monkeys!! You can book a ride through the Isletas with a tour company in Granada or save money and hire a guide yourself by heading to the south end of the lakefront. Just make sure to mention that you want to pass by ‘La Isla de los Monos.’

Other tour highlights include an abundance of bird and plant life, the fortress of San Pablo – built to protect Granada from pirates in the 18th century – and a handful of restaurants and hotels serving fresh fish and traditional dishes.

A two-hour leisurely boat trip, usually including a stop for lunch, is an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon, and the unique beauty of Las Isletas de Granada is something everyone should experience. Don’t forget to bring along some fruit for the monkeys.