23 March 2011
One of the most remarkable cities in Nicaragua, León is an ideal place for a weekend getaway. Home to cathedrals and museums, volcanoes and beaches, there is no shortage of things to do and see in and around this beautiful city.
I hopped in the truck with my co-pilot, Gallo, who called the city of lions home for four years. I had two days. I figured he could help me find the best of what it offers.
Coming from Managua, we decided to take the newer road, Carretera Nueva a León. Driving reasonably it will get you there in about 90 minutes, that is if you can fight off the urge to stop in La Paz for some of the best quesillo in Nicaragua… We pulled into León about 105 minutes later, with bellies full of the cheesy goodness.
Gallo suggested we check out barrio Subtiava. When volcano Momotombo destroyed the original city of León in 1610, the Spanish moved it next to this indigenous capital, which is now part of the city.
It is also home to El Tamarindon. The giant 600 year old tree was said to be used by the Spanish to hang Adiact, the leader of the Subtiava tribe in the late 18th century. Since then it had become a symbol of indigenous fortitude and perseverance. It took Gallo a couple tries to find the right street the tree was on, but we finally saw it…well, some of it. The tree was destroyed during a storm in September, nothing but a large jagged piece of it still sticks out of the ground.
It was a bit of a downer, but determined to learn more about the indigenous people of the region, we tracked down the Adiact Museum of Archeology (Museo Arqueológico del Pueblo Indígena de Los Subtiavas). Recently remodeled, the small but worthwhile museum is filled with archeological pieces including, pots, tools and weapons of the Subtiava tribe who were the first people to settle in this area. There are also new large displays with detailed descriptions (in Spanish) of their proud history.
Hungry again, we hit up El Lobito Bar in the same neighborhood, Gallo recommended we split the impressive ‘plato surtido’ with some of the best Nica ribs I’ve had, plus chicken, tajadas, meatballs and more for C$190 (a little less than $10). I knew there was a reason I kept that guy around.
Backpacker tourism in León has led to a wide assortment of hostels popping up throughout the city and that means it is fairly easy to overdose on patchouli funk and B.O., but it also makes it easy to can find a nice private room at a hostel for less than a hotel. I checked out the Tortuga Booluda (the Lazy Turtle) because of its close proximity to central park, the good things I had read about it online and the private rooms with AC that they offer in addition a co-ed dormitory.
The things I had heard were spot on, the place was clean, the staff friendly and the other guests super laidback. Knowing that I had to get up early the next morning to visit the youngest volcano in Central America, Cerro Negro, I decided to pass the rest of the night there playing pool, throwing back liters of Toña and listening to Gallo play drunken Cure covers.
In the morning, I met up with a group of friends at Vapues Tours, where we took one of their daily guided trips to hike Cerro Negro, just 25 kilometers from León, and try out ash boarding. Our bilingual guide Oscar told us about the history of the volcano and how its young age (about 160 years) and constant activity make it basically impossible for trees and plants to grow on its slopes. The result is one of the more unique looking volcanoes around, a black mass of barren volcanic rock, that contrasts greatly with the surrounding jungle and other volcanoes that make up the Cordillera de Maribios chain that it is a part of.
The 40-minute hike to the top was fairly easy but what really got to me was the heat. Even early in the morning, the sun beat down on the black rocks like a schoolyard bully. Extra water is a must so that you will be able to enjoy the extraordinary surroundings waiting for you at the top. But once you are there, it’s like finding yourself on the surface of another planet. Tiny black rocks crunch under your feet with each step, as smoke escapes from the smoldering craters down below. The 360-degree view is more than impressive and you can make out several of the other volcanoes on the chain.
When it was time to come down my stomach knotted up a bit. The decline looked a little steeper than I had imagined and the reality that I was about to fly down the side of a volcano with my feet strapped to a board took hold. I envied those in our group who had selected sit-down boards, but eventually I sucked it up and pointed my board down the hill.
It turned out to be a lot of fun. Putting the weight on my back leg got me going pretty fast. To slow down I just leaned forward a bit. There was nothing scary once it started, in fact, afterward I found myself wanting to try sitting on the board because it looked like you can get going even faster.
By the time we were riding back in Vapues Tours’ mercifully air-conditioned truck, I was exhausted and it was barely noon. A quick bite to eat and some much needed hydration got me back in the game.
We headed over to Central Park to visit the Cathedral de León. Local legend has it that the cathedral’s immense size is a result of a mix-up on the ship that bought the plans from Spain, with blueprints intended for Peru being accidentally sent to León. If that’s true, it turned out to be a ‘happy accident’ for Nicaragua – though for the guy who screwed up, knowing those Spaniards, I’m thinking not so much.
Entrance to the church is free and inside you can visit the tomb of Ruben Dario, Nicaragua’s most recognized poet and prodigal son of León. But for a couple of extra cordobas you can climb the stairs to the roof and take in the incredible view and architecture. Just don’t ring the bell. Seriously. I guarantee you will want to, but fight the urge!
About four blocks down from the park you will find the Centro de Arte Fundación Ortiz Gurdián, easily the most impressive art museum in Nicaragua. It’s also one of the best bargains around. For a couple dollars you get access to two buildings filled with contemporary works including big names like Picasso, alongside some of Latin America’s best.
Feeling full of culture and history, we decided to head out to Poneloya to learn a little more about beaches and beer. Apparently the road from León to the beach towns of Poneloya and Las Peñitas used to be bad. Like horribly bad. Thankfully it has been redone, in fact, it is without a doubt the best road I have driven on in the country. What used to take an hour is now right around 20 minutes and it makes the beaches here closer from Managua than San Juan del Sur, yet far more rustic and village-like, the way San Juan used to be.
We opted to rent a beachfront house in Poneloya and pulled into town just in time to hit the ocean for a dip in front of an absolutely gorgeous sunset. It was a perfect way to combat the day’s heat, but I recommend not going too far out to swim, as the waves can be a bit rough.
For dinner we tried the oldest restaurant in Poneloya, El Pariente Salinas. The owner invited us to the fridge to check out the assortment of fish and several members of our group picked out their own dinner. The meal was fresh, the beers were cold and everyone left satisfied. But since the nightlife in Poneloya is pretty much do-it-yourself, we headed back to the house to throw our own party with rum we had brought from León.
After a laidback morning at the beach house, we headed further into town, down past the strip of bars and restaurants to hang out at the Surfing Turtle Lodge.
To really get away from it all, you can’t do much better than the Surfing Turtle. We took the short boat ride over to Los Brasiles Island where a horse cart arrived to pick us up and take us to the unique, 100 percent solar-powered eco lodge. They offer surfing, volleyball and accommodations starting at $10 a night, but more than anything it is a great place to chill with friends and enjoy the wonders of the island. From a protected sea turtle hatchery on the beach to great waves and fresh grilled food, it’s a place I wouldn’t mind getting lost at for a couple days.
Unfortunately, after spending the whole afternoon there, the sun was setting on our weekend in León. It was time to get back to reality. We headed to our beach house, packed up our stuff and hit the road back to Managua.
…some usefull pointers…
Va Pues Tours
Explore Nicaragua with Vapues Tours. They offer day trips and tour packages for destinations all over Nicaragua, and specialize in giving clients that ‘once in a lifetime’ experience. Vapues is also a premier outfitter for ‘ash boarding’ trips to Cerro Negro, and are major proponents of sustainable development of community based tourism. Contact them by e-mail or visit their offices in León and Granada.
Email: info@vapues.com
Tel: (505) 2315-4099 | (505) 8606-2276
Dir: Costado Norte de la Iglesia el Laborío, frente a la Casa Cural, León
www.vapues.com
La Tortuga Booluda Hostel
Friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices with nice private rooms and coed dorm, plus lots of amenities, including billiards, internet, library, kitchen and more.
Tel:(505) 2311 4653
Dir: From the southwest corner of Central Park, 3 ½ blocks west
www.hosteltrail.com/tortugabooluda
Surfing Turtle Lodge
Located on a small island just off of Poneloya (five minute boat ride), this solor-powered eco-friendly hostel offers private cabanas, rooms and a coed dorm. It’s truly a perfect place to get away from it all.
Email: info@surfingturtlelodge.com
Tel: (505) 8640 0644
Dir: Isla Los Brasiles, North of Poneloya
www.surfingturtlelodge.com
El Lobito Bar
Great grilled food, often accompanied by live music, in an historic León neighborhood.
Tel: 2311- 4146
Dir: 4 blocks west, ½ block south, 1 ½ blocks west from Laborio Church, Barrio Subtiava.
CocinArte
Fresh vegetarian food, juices and more served in a relaxed environment.
Tel: 2315- 4099
Dir: North side of El Laborio Church, in front of Casa Cural, León
El Pariente Salinas
This Poneloya landmark offers some of the best seafood around.
Dir: Located on the main road just as you enter Poneloya
Ortiz Guardián Foundation Art Center
Adress: 1 block west of the Parque Rubén Darío
